Among the old alleys of Tehran, there are buildings that are not merely historical structures; they carry within them a part of the story of modern Tehran’s formation. The Mo’tamen al-Atabba House is one such building—a historic mansion in the old Oudlajan neighborhood, whose name is tied to one of the prominent physicians of the Qajar era, Mirza Zein al-Abedin Khan Donboli Zarrabi, known as Mo’tamen al-Atabba.
This house is located on Pamenar Street, at the end of an alley of the same name, and its distinctive architecture, central courtyard, and brick façade present visitors with an image of the aristocratic houses of Tehran during the Qajar period. The presence of this building in several films and historical series, including the series Shahrzad, has also made the Mo’tamen al-Atabba House a familiar sight for many people.
Who was Mo’tamen al-Atabba?
Mirza Zein al-Abedin Khan Donboli Zarrabi was a renowned physician of the Qajar era, known by the title Mo’tamen al-Atabba. He was the personal physician to Naser al-Din Shah Qajar and was considered one of the key figures in modern medicine in Iran at that time.
Mo’tamen al-Atabba was one of the first graduates of Dar ul-Funun (the Polytechnic of Tehran) and studied medicine during a period when new medical knowledge was taking shape in Iran. He also trained under the French court physician, Joseph Désiré Tholozan, and was recognized as a skilled physician and prominent surgeon.
The significance of Mo’tamen al-Atabba’s character is not limited to his medical profession; his life serves as an example of the introduction of modern medical knowledge into Iranian society during the Qajar era, and the house known by his name preserves a part of this social history.
History of the Mo’tamen al-Atabba House
The Mo’tamen al-Atabba House is located in the historic Oudlajan neighborhood—a district that was considered one of the most important and prosperous areas of old Tehran, where many prominent families resided.
According to published information about this building, its construction dates back to approximately 1261 AH (Solar Hijri) and its area is about 800 square meters. The presence of “Mo’tamen al-Atabba Alley” on the map of Tehran prepared by Abd al-Ghaffar during the Qajar period also indicates that this area has been known by this family’s name since the past.
The house remained in the possession of the Mo’tamen al-Atabba family for generations and served as the residence of its members for many years. In later years, the mansion also attracted the attention of historical architecture enthusiasts and visual media producers.
Architecture of the Mo’tamen al-Atabba House
One of the most significant attractions of the Mo’tamen al-Atabba House is its architecture. This mansion holds particular importance among Tehran’s historical houses due to its three-story structure and is considered one of the notable multi-story buildings of old Tehran.
The brick façade of the building, along with large windows and stained glass, creates a visually striking combination. The turquoise color of some doors and windows also showcases elements of traditional Iranian architectural color schemes. In the central part of the house, there is a courtyard and a pool, which forms a connection between the open space and the building.
The building’s location at the end of a narrow, historic alley isolates the house from the hustle and bustle of Pamenar Street. This feature makes you feel the distance between today’s Tehran and the atmosphere of old Tehran even more strongly upon entering the complex.
Mo’tamen al-Atabba House; One of the Popular Filming Locations
In recent years, Tehran’s historical houses have become attractive locations for producing historical films and series, and the Mo’tamen al-Atabba House is no exception.
The house’s historical atmosphere, Qajar architecture, and preservation of many old elements make it a suitable choice for recreating the ambiance of Tehran and Iranian life in past eras. Among the works that have used this house as a filming location are the series Shahrzad and the film Khane-ye Pedari (Father’s House).
For this reason, you may have seen the familiar façade of the Mo’tamen al-Atabba House while watching some historical works and Iranian dramas, without knowing that this real building is located in one of Tehran’s oldest neighborhoods.
Oudlajan Neighborhood; The Historical Neighbor of Mo’tamen al-Atabba House
To better understand the significance of the Mo’tamen al-Atabba House, we need to become a little familiar with the Oudlajan neighborhood.
Oudlajan was one of the main districts of old Tehran and, due to its proximity to the bazaar and the royal citadel, was considered the residence of many prominent families and influential figures during the Qajar period. Today, the remaining alleys, houses, bathhouses, marketplaces, and historical structures in this area offer a picture of the fabric of old Tehran.
The Mo’tamen al-Atabba House is indeed one piece of this historical puzzle; therefore, visiting it can be combined with exploring Pamenar, the Tehran Bazaar, the Imamzadeh Yahya shrine, and other historical monuments of Oudlajan.
Where is the Mo’tamen al-Atabba House?
The Mo’tamen al-Atabba House is located in Tehran, on Pamenar Street, opposite the Kashani Mosque, in the Mo’tamen al-Atabba cul-de-sac. The building is situated at the end of the alley. Some sources list its address as number 13.
How to Get There
Due to the house’s location in the old central fabric of Tehran and the busy bazaar area, using the metro and public transportation is a good option for getting to this area. After reaching the Pamenar area, you can continue the rest of the way on foot.
If you are going to this area by private car, you should be aware that the streets around Pamenar and the bazaar are usually crowded, and traffic restrictions can also make driving difficult.
Best Time to Visit
For visiting the Mo’tamen al-Atabba House, it is better to coordinate regarding the possibility of visiting and the reception hours beforehand, as the visiting conditions for private historical buildings or filming locations may change at different times.
Some sources mention visiting hours from around 10 AM to 5 or 6 PM, but it is advisable to check the current hours and conditions before you go.
Why is the Mo’tamen al-Atabba House Worth Seeing?
The Mo’tamen al-Atabba House holds various attractions for enthusiasts of Tehran’s history, Qajar architecture, and even cinema and television. On one hand, this building is connected to the life of one of the prominent physicians of the Qajar period, and on the other hand, it preserves a part of the residential architecture of old Tehran.
The house’s location in the Oudlajan neighborhood further doubles its importance, as visiting this building can be part of a historical tour of Tehran in the heart of the capital’s old fabric.
If you are interested in historical buildings, viewing the brick façade, stained glass windows, courtyard, and interior spaces of the house, followed by a walk through the old alleys of Pamenar and Oudlajan, can offer a different experience of exploring Tehran.
Mo’tamen al-Atabba House at a Glance
Name of Building: Mo’tamen al-Atabba House
Historical Period: Qajar
Location: Tehran, Oudlajan neighborhood, Pamenar Street
Owner and Associated Figure: Mirza Zein al-Abedin Khan Donboli Zarrabi, known as Mo’tamen al-Atabba
Area: Approximately 800 square meters
Construction Date: Around 1261 AH (Solar Hijri) / 1882-83 AD
Distinctive Feature: A three-story mansion with historical architecture
Architectural Elements: Brick façade, large windows and stained glass, courtyard and pool
Use in Cinema and Television: Among the filming locations for the series Shahrzad and the film Khane-ye Pedari
Address: Tehran, Pamenar Street, opposite Kashani Mosque, Mo’tamen al-Atabba cul-de-sac, end of the alley
Final Words
The Mo’tamen al-Atabba House is one of those historical buildings of Tehran whose value is not limited to its appearance and architecture. This house tells the story of a part of Iran’s medical history, the life of Tehran’s affluent class during the Qajar period, and the evolution of the capital’s residential architecture.
Perhaps the most fascinating feature of this house is that in the heart of one of the busiest parts of today’s Tehran, one can still see signs of old Tehran—a city with narrow alleys, introverted houses, central courtyards, and mansions, each with its own story to tell.
